Editor's Note: Chris Hastings is the James Beard Award-winning chef of the acclaimed Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Alabama.
The first time I heard a prominent chef bemoan the phrase
"farm-to-table," I was in New York meeting with a group of chefs to discuss topics in and around our industry.
I cocked my head in that direction as if to say, “Did I just hear what I think I did?”
Another chef quickly chimed in that he was also "so tired of the
farm-to-table movement," like it was no longer a legitimate or important
way of thinking.
Seriously? That moment was neither the time nor place to have a
debate so I chose, uncharacteristically, to make a note and keep my
mouth shut - until now.
Since that time, chefs from around the world have gone on to
echo those sentiments
in an array of publications. Their declarations have run the gamut from
stating that the philosophy is small-minded and naive, and that this
“save the world” hogwash is no place for a chef. They seem to believe
that a chef's only responsibility is to cook great food, and that
anything else is a distraction.
One chef suggested that if you obsess about relationships with
farmers, purveyors or producers, you do not have time to cook at all. I
want to believe something was lost in translation because he could not
have really meant that - it’s just ridiculous.
In defense of the chefs’ viewpoints, I will
agree that the term is overused, abused
and does not, in and of itself, make you a better cook or restaurant. I
am also not of the mindset that every little thing you serve must come
from within 200 miles of your restaurant - or whatever your particular
philosophy dictates. Most restaurants do reach outside their
self-imposed limits every now and again.
However, I grow concerned when some of the most influential voices of
our time
discourage the farm-to-table philosophy to the next generation of young
thinkers, chefs, restaurateurs and, most importantly, leaders.
As is too often the case in our society, we are quick to discard
oddities and excess in an effort to reach for the newest shiny object.
We show little regard for the value of that we have just abandoned.
My defense rests in what I know, what I have seen and what has
changed our country's eating habits profoundly over the last 20-plus
years.
When a young, passionate chef decides to plant his or her flag in a
backwater town, a small market or even a medium-sized market, they are
always met with challenges relative to supply. They not only have to
find it, they have to afford it. These folks have to live in the reality
of the place where they’ve decided to open their restaurant.
So, what must they do to achieve their goals? Whether it’s the
dream of becoming as
good as any restaurant in the world or just a great restaurant that serves their particular community, they have to start the same: Make a few
phone calls.
Chefs need to make it their mission to find the best, whether it's
farmers, foragers, fishermen, a pig man, the local couple raising a few
chickens and eggs or
heirloom seed banks that are propagating vegetables, grains and fruit. They end up building
a network
of, arguably, the most disproportionately passionate people on the
planet - the local purveyors. This network is key to getting the most
bang for their buck.
Now, if developing these relationships affords them a better food
supply, they express it in a way that resonates with their community and
they introduce that community to those amazing people via their menu,
they might still be open in year three.
Next
thing you know, the local chefs and the newest, most important heroes
in the food community - the purveyors - are now getting phone calls from
folks wanting to start farmers markets, create edible schoolyards,
organize food festivals, contribute to local charities, improve school
cafeteria programs, discuss community development ideas through the
prism of food and create a better, safer, more sustainable food supply.
Shining a spotlight on these producers and their impact has the
potential to educate the community and elevate its standards for food
culture.
Solely focusing chefs’ responsibilities on preparing delicious food
while not taking a leadership position on this and other issues is
certainly a personal choice. Not everyone is going to agree with me, but
please, before you throw out the baby with the bath water, recognize
the important effects and benefits that the local food and farming
movements have had on countless communities and how it has positively
changed them forever.
At Hot and Hot Fish Club, we can, and do, use suppliers from any and all sources around the world, as I see fit.
We also choose to plant a seed that one day will grow and provide great shade for generations to come.
Leadership, I hope, will be our legacy.